Bali — A Personal Guide | Lead Yourself Retreat
Things worth looking at before we connect

Bali,
beyond the retreat.

Ubud · Canggu · Gili Islands

The places and practical notes I would walk you through anyway, collected here so you can browse at your own pace and come to our call with your questions.


This is a starting point, not a full directory. Every place listed is somewhere we have personally stayed or visited over the years. They range across styles and budgets. There is far more on the island than we could list here, so if you have somewhere in mind that is not below, ask me. I have probably been there or know someone who has.


Flights.

You fly into Denpasar Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS). From there, Ubud is about an hour and a half by car depending on traffic. There are no direct flights from most of the world, so expect a long total travel time with one or two layovers.

Routes that have worked well for us, shared in case they help. Before COVID we flew EVA Air from New York via Taipei, roughly 16 hours to Taipei then 5 hours to Bali. An overnight layover in Taipei is a good option if you have time to see the city. After COVID we flew Qatar Airways via Doha once, also a good experience. For the past three years we have flown Turkish Airlines, which for East Coast US travelers splits the trip into two manageable parts, roughly 9 to 10 hours to Istanbul and 12 hours to Bali. If you want to break the journey in Istanbul, I can give you pointers. For routing based on your specific departure city, ask me on the call.


Where to stay in Ubud.

For the days before the retreat, base yourself in Ubud. There are two areas to consider. The central Yoga Barn area puts you in walking distance of cafes, restaurants, studios, and the market, with a natural community feel that suits solo travelers. The quieter area around Alchemy Yoga sits slightly outside the center, with coffee shops, restaurants, and stores nearby but fewer crowds. Hava Ubud is a good, well-priced option in this area.

Hotels at every price level exist in both areas. The ones below are places we have stayed at or visited.

Where to stay in Ubud
Central · walkable
Yoga Barn Accommodations
On-site stay, steps from classes. Strong community energy.
Central · elevated
Alaya Resort
Directly behind Yoga Barn. More polished property.
Central · simple
Japa Suites
Clean, no-frills, good value, good location.
Quieter area · well priced
Hava Ubud
Near Alchemy Yoga, in the quieter part of Ubud. Good balance of quality and value.
Splurge · iconic
Four Seasons Sayan
Four Seasons in Ubud with a Balinese touch. Worth looking into for a splurge.
Splurge · architecture
Bambu Indah
Notable for its architecture. Check their website. Also a good spot for sunset even if you are not staying.

Food and drink.

Restaurants we return to consistently.

Breakfast · coffee
Suka Espresso
Our go-to for morning coffee and breakfast.
Breakfast · lunch
Yoga Barn Café
Worth visiting at least once for breakfast or a smoothie. Good setting.
Breakfast · lunch
Alchemy Café
Good options all day. A regular stop when we are in that part of town.
Cocktails · happy hour · dinner
Ibu Susu
A minute from Alaya. Restaurant and bar. Good for happy hour or a stop during a shopping day.
Dinner
Zest
Good food, good atmosphere. A reliable Ubud dinner.
Dessert
Room for Dessert
Reservations recommended. Dessert-only walk-ins are sometimes possible but expect a wait.
Sunset drinks
Sayan House, for sunset. It is in the Sayan area, slightly outside central Ubud, a short ride from the Hava and Alchemy side of town. Do this before the retreat starts, as the timing will not work once we begin. One of the best sunset views on the island. Brie Restaurant & Cheesery is also in that area and worth a visit.

Yoga studios.

Yoga Barn and Alchemy are the two main studios in Ubud. Both run Vinyasa classes and a wide range of other modalities. Their cafes draw like-minded people, which makes them good for solo travelers. Yoga Barn is in the central area. Alchemy is on the quieter side of Ubud.


Bodywork and massage.

Massage is available everywhere in Ubud, from street-level shops to resort spas, and quality varies. For a high-end treatment, properties like Four Seasons and Ritz-Carlton are excellent and still more affordable than comparable spas elsewhere.

For deep bodywork, we recommend Itong. He has strong anatomical knowledge and his work is excellent. His space is clean and simple, not luxurious. Read his Google Maps reviews to see if it suits you. To book, message him on WhatsApp, listed on his Google Maps profile, and tell him you found him through Emre and Bee. He books up, so reach out early.

Itong Bodywork — maps.app.goo.gl/5494VerbxtryxJN5A


Getting around.

Traffic is a real factor. Bali has ceremonies somewhere on the island most days of the week, and combined with tourist volume, a 10-minute drive can take 40.

Use the ride-hailing apps Gojek and Grab rather than street taxis. Both operate in Ubud and Canggu and offer a car or a scooter. With the scooter option, a driver meets you where you are, hands you a helmet, and you ride on the back. It is fast, cheap, and cuts through traffic that stops cars. We will help you set up the apps when you arrive.

Scooter rentals are available everywhere and cheap. Only rent one if you are an experienced rider and comfortable in heavy traffic that flows from the left. Bali traffic is relentless, with motorcycles coming from every direction. Do not learn here.


Day trips from Ubud.

For getting around Ubud and beyond, we can connect you with drivers and guides we have worked with for nearly a decade. They are reliable, honest, easy to communicate with, and know the island well. They will take you where you want to go and offer their own recommendations. Let me know and I will make the introduction.

Iconic · intense
Mount Batur Sunrise Hike
One of the most popular things to do on the island, and the sunrise above the clouds is worth it. It is genuinely intense. Wear proper shoes. Bring a backpack, because breakfast is handed to you in a Styrofoam box you would otherwise carry up by hand. Pickup is around 3AM. Plan to be tired the next day.
Worth it. Plan a rest day after.
Cultural · scenic
Uluwatu & South Temples
Beaches, surf, and temples worth visiting. The southwest coast has strong Indian Ocean sunsets and some of the most impressive resort properties on the island, and is worth staying in if you want a beach resort base. Single Fin is a cliffside multi-level bar and restaurant above the Uluwatu surf break, relaxed by day and livelier at sunset, with good views and cocktails. The Bvlgari Resort is also in the area. We once tried to stop in for a coffee and were not let in, which tells you the level of exclusivity. Worth looking into if that is your kind of experience.

South Bali and Canggu.

The southwest coast and Canggu are not our personal base. We visited in our earlier years and still stop by Canggu for a restaurant or a boutique. For beach time we prefer the Gili Islands. South Bali beaches are beautiful and the properties are world class. Both are worth your time.

The beach clubs in Seminyak and Canggu are genuinely good. The food, drinks, and ambience rival Miami or Ibiza at a fraction of the price. Potato Head in Seminyak is the iconic one. W Hotel Bali is a strong property in the area. If a high-energy beach club is on your list, this is where to find it.

Canggu is worth a day or two for the boutiques, restaurants, and energy. About 20 minutes outside the main area is Lodge in the Woods, a stay that is an experience in itself.

instagram.com/lodgeinthewoods

In Canggu, Yuki is a good spot for Japanese food.


When you want the beach

Gili Islands.

For a tropical beach experience, go to the Gili Islands. No cars, no motorbikes. Bicycles, horse carriages, and the ocean. Of the three islands, we choose Gili Air. It balances vibrant and quiet, with good food, sunset drinks, and real stillness when you want it. Everything is bike distance.

Pink Coco is our hotel there. It sits in a quieter spot on the island, away from the busiest areas, though nothing is far. Mowies, whether you stay there or not, is a must for sunset drinks and food.

Gili Air is also one of the best places in the region for scuba diving and snorkeling, with healthy patches of coral still worth seeing. Group tours run daily, but we book a private boat through Pink Coco and go as our own group. Horseback riding at sunrise or sunset on the beach is also available.

The three islands
Our choice
Gili Air
Vibrant but not overwhelming. Good food, good energy, real quiet when you want it. Our choice every time.
Party · buzzing
Gili Trawangan
The liveliest of the three, with good properties and restaurants and a party scene that runs through the night. If that is your trip, this is the island for it.
Quiet · remote
Gili Meno
The quietest of the three. Popular with honeymooners and anyone wanting real seclusion. We have not been, but by all accounts it is peaceful and beautiful.

Getting there requires a fast boat, about 90 minutes from our recommended port. Boarding lines take some patience and the boat is not luxurious. A helicopter from the main island is an option but needs enough people to make a charter worthwhile. When we connect on your travel plans, I will walk you through the best route based on your timing.

Transport & logistics

Transport support.

Airport transfers are included in the retreat package for arrivals March 18 to 20 and departures March 26 to 27.

If you are traveling before or after that window, we can connect you with the trusted drivers and guides we have worked with over nearly a decade of retreats in Bali, so you do not have to arrange transportation on your own.


These are our personal recommendations from years of returning to this island. Read through, look things up, and bring anything not covered here to the call.